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by Dr. DOg Am fear a ni obair na thràth Bidh e na leth-thàmh. Or as my editor would say: He who does his work in
time will always have leisure time Speaking of leisure, the interesting thing about scotch whisky is how much work goes
into producing it, then how much time is spent waiting for it to mature. Resting in the barrels is a term used to describe
how whisky matures as it sits in a warehouse, mixing with the wood resins and previous materials that also aged in the casks.
How could two whiskies, located within hundreds of yards of one another, end us so different? A good question, and one
that has never wholly been answered. Take Laphroaig and Lagavulin, two of the giants of Islay, the small island
west of Glasgow, home of fishermen, farmers, distillers and, of course, smugglers. Laphroaig, owned by Allied Domecq PLC,
is the quintessential Islay malt: Oily, full bodied, heavily peated (smoked) and with a distinctly iodine-like nose. This,
as has been so often stated, is not a whisky for the fainthearted. The strange thing is how many first time drinkers actually
like Laphroaig. People who would normally drink vodka take to Laphroaig like an olive to a martini. Established in 1815
(but not officially licensed until 1825 according to Graham Nown in his book on whisky), Laphroaig was owned by the Johnston
family from its official inception until 1847, then taken over and operated by members of the Johnston family from 1856-1954.
Laphroaig also boasts of having one of the foremost women in the history of whisky, Miss Bessie Williamson (who was also
known as Mrs. Wishart Campbell), running the distillery from 1954 until the 1960's, when Laphroaig acquired by a series
of larger companies. Lagavulin's history, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. There were actually two
Lagavulin Distilleries on the site, according to Moss & Hume. The earliest was founded by yet another Johnston (John),
and ceased operation around 1833. The second Lagavulin was founded in 1817 by Archibald Campbell. By 1837, only one Lagavulin
was in operation, owned by Donald Johnston. When what was to become White Horse Distillers Ltd. took over Lagavulin Distillery
in 1867, the stage was set for a rivalry between the two massive malts of Islay (with apologies to Ardbeg.) Lagavulin became
a part of the huge Distillers Company Ltd. in 1927, and is currently owned by Diageo PLC. The 16 year old Lagavulin is more
complex, rounded and sweeter than Laphroaig, boasting a powerful smoky flavor balanced with a burnt, toasty, almost spicy
profile. The age difference (16 versus 10 for Laphroaig) accounts for some of the differences, but these two malts would
never be mistaken for one another. Yet there they sit, less than a mile apart, producing vastly different whiskies. And
no one still can explain why.
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